How To Wash & Clean A Wool Hat: A Guide That Really Works

When I first switched over from wearing synthetic hats to wearing pure new wool beanies and bobbles, I didn’t want to take them off, such was the joy of wearing this newly discovered fibre. Keeping me toastie warm on cold days but not too hot on warmer days. There are many reported benefits to wearing wool, some of which you can find in our earlier blog post here. The properties of natural wool are very different to synthetic man-made materials, and its delicate nature made me wonder how to best care for my Scottish wool hat and find a cleaning routine that really works.

Having trialled a number of different wool care and cleaning routines, in my experience, the cleaning routine that really works is letting my woolly hat air as much as possible in between wears, with a surface spot clean if needed. When washing can’t be avoided, I hand wash the wool hat in cold water with a very gentle organic wool cleaner. After a single cold rinse and a gentle squeeze (the towel method is best), I re-shape my wool hat and lay it flat on a drying rack at room temperature. I found this the best way to care for my woolly hat and a cleaning routine that really works.   

Being so used to just throwing my clothes into the washing machine and not worrying too much about them shrinking or stretching, I initially worried that switching to wearing raw pure wool hats would make it much harder to care for my items. I really worried about keeping them clean and ruining my precious hats in the wash. It put me on a quest to find a way to care for my Scottish woolly hats and a cleaning routine that really works for me.

“These steps have proven to be the best way to provide tender loving care for my woolly hats through a cleaning routine that is both gentle and effective.”

What I discovered caring for my woolly hats

After a bit of research and some trial and error, here are the methods and steps of the care routine I tried and that really works in caring for my wool hats: 

  1. Airing

  2. Spot cleaning

  3. Hand washing

  4. Towel drying

  5. Re-shaping

  6. Flat air drying

Airing the wool hat in between wears

It turns out that wool is pretty much self-cleaning due to its ability to naturally resist dirt and spills and prevents bacteria growth. Wool wicks away the moisture from spills and simply needs a clean cloth to dab or soak a spill or stain from the surface. You can do an experiment yourself with a wool surface by adding a small amount of water to see that it is instantly repelled. The fibre of wool is comprised of two types of cells that absorb differing quantities of moisture. One type cell expands more than the other causing a constant motion friction between the two. This characteristic creates an automatic, self-cleaning effect. In addition, wool is also anti-microbial, meaning that it will not hold onto smells or bad odours like synthetics other textile materials can. It is also highly resistant to mould and mildew.

Airing your woollies in between wears is an excellent way to actively wick away moisture. Giving your hat an opportunity to air out daily allows it to release any dampness and stay fresh longer. I find that airing allows me to wear my Scottish wool hat more often without having to wash them between uses.

Spot cleaning your woolly hat rather than washing

If you wear your wool hat as much as I do, which for me includes cooler summer evenings due to the location of our home in the Inner Hebrides, you’ll inevitably find that stains end up on that beloved woolly hat, no matter how hard you try to keep it clean. Rather than washing it however, I found that a local spot clean works a treat for day to day stains on my Scottish wool hat.

Depending on what the cause of the stain is, (for example, red wine probably needs a different solution to mascara), for most normal stains I make up a liquid with organic wool detergent (see below) and white vinegar (roughly half / half) mixed with cold water. I soak a clean cloth in the liquid and gently dab the stain on the hat, being careful not to rub too hard. For me, this removes most of the stains from daily wear.

Why vinegar? The acidity in vinegar adjusts the pH (acidity) of the water to bring it closer to that of your wool garment, thereby cleaning it without doing any damage. It’s also an effective fabric softener. This may not smell too great when you’re washing it, but the vinegar smell will disappear when it dries. I often add a drop or two of my favourite essential oil to give it a lovely scent.

Hand washing in cold water with wool detergent

When I need a bit more that a spot clean, I wash the whole wool hat. I tend to make most of my cleaning products at home using organic non-toxic ingredients, using soap nuts for example, but there are some really good specialist wool cleaners on the market.

I found that using biological detergent is a no-no for natural wool as they contain enzymes that literally “eat” their way through protein stains like food, and that includes the wool fibres of your natural woolly hat as they are made of proteins. So, if I don’t use my home-made detergent, I use a non-bio one designed for delicate fabrics. I have read that some people use shampoo (I suppose that makes sense given that it’s designed for hair) but I have yet to try that.

Experience has shown me that running water direct onto wool garments is not a good idea, I found it better to fill a small tub or sink with water first and then putting in the detergent (and I only use a tiny bit of soap), followed by the wool hat. I don’t let it sit for too long, just long enough to let the water permeate. I press it down gently to fully submerge it. I have heard that if you agitate wool too much it felts. I have managed to avoid this to date.

Rinse in clean water once or twice and then I move to the drying stage.

Towel drying

I tend to use two clean, lint-free towels to remove the excess water from my Scottish Wool Hat. I place my hat flat in its original shape and place one towel underneath and one on top. Next, I roll tightly and squeeze like I am rolling up a sleeping bag. This will remove most of the excess water. It is best not to wring hats to remove water, rather towel drying will remove much of the water and is much gentler on the fibres than wringing or twisting them.

Taking extra care when drying can help prevent wool “pilling” which are the small knots or balls that can appear on the surface of the wool hat. Where there is friction applied to the garment, short fibres or broken fibres start to intertwine with each other and form little knots. If you do encounter pilling, the good news is that they can be removed. There are combs, stones, razors or scissors that may be used to remove pills. To use, you can lightly rub the chosen tool against the affected area of the flattened-out garment. Drag it across the surface of the wool and clear the removed knots as they accumulate, using tape or brushing off with your fingers.

Re-shaping after wash

When my wool hat is almost dry, I gently reshape my woolly to its original shape.  The sizing and shape will set in place during the drying process. My wool hat may contract a little, but they do not shrink to any great extent. The key to how much stretch is in wool lies in how dense the wool fibres are. Certain wool fibres, depending on their weight category, may not stretch at all as its fibres are very close together. It is a stable fibre and does not stretch out when I wear it, except for a little natural built-in flexibility. My woolly hats shape comfortably to my head when I put them back on.   

Flat air drying

For flat air drying, I gently unroll the towels, and lay my wool hat flat to dry on a fresh towel or drying rack at room temperature. I find it dries more quickly if I turn it over after a few hours. I don’t hang it up or drape it over a radiator, as I found it will dry in an odd shape. You may have already learned that for larger items, like a chunky wool jumper, that gravity works against wool and the weight of the garment can pull and stretch it out when hung up. The hanger can also warp the silhouette and create irreparable indentations in the shoulders. I have found that due to its smaller size, laying my hats flat has worked rather well for keeping their shape.

I am also careful to avoid placing my hats in direct sunlight or near heat sources to prevent shrinking, yellowing or unwanted damage to my wool hat resulting in a longer-lasting woollies. Generally, the wool hat goes straight back onto my head after that!

How do I safely store my hats when not wearing them? I like to place them in a drawer with a little breathing room, along with scarves and my other knitted items. Other options are to place your hats in a cedar chest, which is a bug and pest deterrent or into an airtight plastic tub. I like to use natural moth repellents like cedar blocks, chips or other plant materials. I have tried including a small sachet of dried lavender, mint or neem leaves and found them to work well. If using mothballs to prevent moths, it is best to avoid letting them touch the woollen fabric due to their chemical content. A good way to prevent the mothballs from coming into contact with your hats is to wrap the mothballs in a muslin cloth and place them in the cupboard or drawer.

Conclusion

After wearing and loving my new Scottish wool beanies and bobbles, I’m pleased that I have found out how to clean them, so that I don’t have to worry about my treasured wool hats losing their shape or inadvertently damaging them in the wash. This guide includes the steps of the care routine I tested and found to be tried and true for the best cleaning of my own wool hats. I like to let my woollies air out each day which releases any dampness, and they stay fresh longer. For most normal stains, I make up a liquid with organic wool detergent and white vinegar mixed with cold water. I soak a clean cloth in the liquid and lightly dab the stain on the hat, being careful not to rub too hard on the fibres. If a full wash of my wool hat is needed for cleaning, I fill a small tub with cold water first and then put in only tiny amount of detergent, followed by the wool hat. I don’t let the Scottish wool hat soak for long, pressing it down softly to fully submerge it. I also avoid twisting or wringing the excess water out the wool hat to protect the fibres. I like to use two clean towels to remove the excess water from my woollies and then lay my wool hat flat to dry on a fresh towel or drying rack. As the wool hat dries, I re-shape it and the sizing and shape will set in place. I’m also careful to avoid placing them in direct sunlight or near heat sources to prevent damaging the wool. These steps have proven to be the best way to provide tender loving care for my woolly hats through a cleaning routine that is both gentle and effective.  

WELAN

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